Why did I lose my mind?
- Vashek
- 2 days ago
- 7 min read
Why I Walked Away from Everything:
Day 1 on the Camino Primitivo (Oviedo to Grado)
Distance: 28 km | Elevation gain: ~500 m | Time on feet: 7–8 hours
This time, I chose my own.
It was still early when I stepped out of the hotel in Oviedo. The streets were empty, the city asleep, and the only evidence of last night's life was the scattered debris from bars and restaurants. Somewhere between the silence of dawn and the first rays of morning light, my Camino began.
The Camino Primitivo — the "Original Way" — starts at the Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo, and it holds a unique place in pilgrimage history. This is the oldest recorded route to Santiago, connected to King Alfonso II of Asturias, who in the 9th century made the first documented pilgrimage to the tomb of Saint James.wikipedia+1
Oviedo's cathedral itself is a masterpiece of architectural evolution. The original Pre-Romanesque basilica was founded by King Fruela I in 781 AD, and later expanded by Alfonso II, who made Oviedo the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias. What stands today is a blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, built mainly between the 13th and 16th centuries.wikipedia+2
But the cathedral's greatest treasure lies in the Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber), a 9th-century chapel that houses sacred relics including the Cruz de los Ángeles (Cross of the Angels) from 808 CE — still the emblem of Oviedo — and the Cruz de la Victoria (Cross of Victory), the symbol of Asturias. For centuries, pilgrims have come here not just to start their journey, but to venerate these relics before setting out.lonelyplanet+1
I left the cathedral behind without fully grasping the weight of history beneath my feet. At that moment, I was just another person with a backpack, wondering if I had made the right decision.
The First Doubts
Leaving Oviedo was actually easier because nobody was watching me. There was no pressure, no audience. Just the sound of my footsteps on empty streets.
But even here, in the first kilometers, the doubts were already creeping in. Could I really make it all the way to Santiago? The total distance of the Camino Primitivo is around 340 kilometers, and while 28 kilometers on paper might sound manageable, the Camino isn't walked on paper. It's walked with your feet, your back, your doubts, and your own energy.
Around me, the city was slowly waking up from the previous night. People were returning from bars while I was walking away from everything familiar, heading toward something I still didn't fully understand.
Gradually, the buildings began to disappear. The city stayed behind me, and the landscape opened up.
The Camino became even quieter.
The route changed too. Asphalt slowly gave way to narrower paths, country lanes, and wooden walkways. The rhythm of walking shifted. In the city, I was moving through streets. Here, I was moving through the landscape itself.
The first stage from Oviedo to Grado is approximately 25 to 28 kilometers, depending on the exact variation and starting point. It's considered a tough opening day, with constantly changing terrain and elevation — about 500 to 600 meters of elevation gain and a mix of dirt paths and asphalt sections.
At that moment, I wasn't thinking about the whole journey to Santiago. I was focused on the next turn, the next hill, and the next place where I could rest for a moment.
The Church of Santa María in Lloriana
One of the first notable landmarks on this stage is the Church of Santa María in Lloriana, a small historic place along the route. The church and the village are mentioned in a donation document from King Alfonso III and his wife in 905 AD, making it one of the older settlements on the Camino Primitivo
By the time we reached Lloriana, the temperature had risen significantly. The calm morning had turned into a hot afternoon, and the shaded area around the church felt like a real gift. We stopped for a moment to slow down, find some shade, and cool off before continuing.
The stop was short, but it helped. We got back on the path with tired legs, a hot body, and a clearer awareness of how many kilometers were still ahead of us.
The Chapel of Santa Ana in Premoño
Further along the route, at around the 17-kilometer mark, lies the small village of Premoño. Here, at the entrance to the village, stands the modest Chapel of Santa Ana — the only visible remnant of an ancient pilgrim hospital that once served travelers on their way to Santiago
The chapel is small and unassuming, but it carries the weight of centuries of pilgrims who passed through this same spot, seeking shelter, rest, and spiritual refuge. Standing there, I felt a strange connection to those medieval travelers — all of them carrying their own doubts, hopes, and reasons for walking.
One of the most historically significant points on this stage is Peñaflor, located at the border between the municipalities of Grado, Candamo, and Las Regueras. This spot has been an indispensable stop on the Camino Primitivo since the 9th century, when it witnessed the first pilgrimage to the tomb of the apostle by King Alfonso II.
In 1144, King Alfonso VII and his wife Doña Berenguela ordered the construction of a bridge, a chapel, and a pilgrim hospital at this strategic location. The bridge spans the narrowest ford of the Nalón River, making it a natural crossing point for pilgrims.
Of the original constructions, only the bridge remains today, although it has been rebuilt several times due to armed conflicts and the constant threat of flooding from the Nalón River. The river has devastated the village on multiple occasions — so much so that some villagers reportedly tied their traditional Asturian granaries (hórreos) to trees to prevent them from being swept away.
The Church of San Juan in Peñaflor, although reformed over the centuries, still preserves signs of its original Romanesque architecture, including the distinctive checkered pattern on its portal. It once served as a church of asylum, where persecuted individuals and repentant criminals could seek refuge.
Crossing this bridge felt like stepping into another era. The stone beneath my feet had been walked by countless pilgrims over nearly a thousand years.
The landscape kept changing — sometimes we walked on roads, sometimes through forest, and sometimes through open countryside. There were no dramatic landmarks every few minutes. The beauty was in the repetition: another gate, another path, another hill, another view.
There were cows grazing in the fields, birds singing in the trees, and almost no other pilgrims on the trail. That surprised me. I had expected the Camino to be full of people, but for long stretches it felt like I had the whole landscape to myself.
That silence wasn't empty. It was full of small sounds — footsteps on the path, grass moving in the wind, and the wind itself passing through the trees. When you walk slowly enough, you can't ignore those sounds anymore. They become the soundtrack of the whole journey.
The route kept climbing and descending again and again. None of the hills were impossibly high, but together they demanded a lot of focus. Every climb took something out of the body, and every descent reminded me that another hill would come later.
At one point during the day, I found myself asking: Why can't we walk like this in the Czech Republic? Why do we have to fly to Spain and walk the Camino when we could actually walk at home too?
The Czech Republic is beautiful — yes, I agree with that. But at least for me, I wanted to take a break from the Czech Republic. I didn't want to hear Czech, I didn't want to deal with anything. I wanted to go to a country where nobody knows me and I don't know anybody.
And so far, that's worked out. It's fantastic. The Spanish people are great. And the pilgrims are from all over the world, so what more could I ask for?
The last kilometers were the hardest. The heat stayed with us all day, and the initial excitement of the first day was replaced by a simple desire to finally arrive.
We walked about 28 kilometers. There were hills, descents, different types of terrain, and very little shade. At this point, the Camino was no longer just an idea or an adventure waiting to happen. It was real.
The final approach to Grado follows an old pilgrim landscape. The route passes through places like Premoño and Peñaflor, where there were once facilities and pilgrim hospices connected to the road to Santiago.
So friends, we've made it.
The last five kilometers were hard, because there wasn't a single drop of shade anywhere. The sun was beating down on us the whole time — it felt like 40 degrees. I have a feeling it's because we're carrying rain jackets. We have our rain jackets with us, so of course it's not raining.
Now we're going to check in. Finally, in 700 meters, and then we'll have a beer.
The first day didn't end with a big victory, but with exhaustion — and the quiet satisfaction of having taken my first step.
Hava a beautiful day. Vashek
PS: At the end of the series I will publish a guide book with all camino information :) Stay tune.
Ps: If you enjoy the reading and would like to support me, you can buy me a coffee :)
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